Raquel Laneri

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Shawna Kay Rodenberg on Appalachia, growing up in an end-times community & her memoir 'Kin'

July 03, 2021 by Raquel Laneri in Interviews

Growing up in an end-times religious community, Shawna Kay Rodenberg renounced her earthly possessions and spoke in tongues. She dressed modestly, in long skirts and scratchy sweaters and could not wear pants. She was whipped for the smallest infraction, such as using a marker to underline passages in her Bible.

Rodenberg details her life in her new memoir “Kin,” starting in Seco, Kentucky, the region in Appalachia where her family has roots dating back 300 years. She narrates how the coal mines wreaked havoc on the community, how her father — restless, searching, and “red-eyed and mad with fear, following his tour of duty in Vietnam” — tried to escape through religion only to be pulled back again and again, how the tragedies and heartbreaks and the sins of previous generations seemed to repeat over and over.

“Kin” is an exquisite book. It’s not just another memoir of escape from religious fanaticism or poverty, like “Educated” or, God forbid, “Hillbilly Elegy.” It’s about learning to love, understand, and accept where you come from and all its complexities. Though toward the end of the book Rodenberg — a scared 20-year-old pregnant bride — does head East, she never really leaves those Kentucky mountains, to which she will return again and again. She never abandons her faith or her family, either.

I spoke with Rodenberg — who now lives in Indiana — for an article I did for the NY Post (it’s not as sensational as the headline makes it out to be). I initially planned the story to be about her relationship with Appalachia, but it ended up focussing on her experiences as a kid in The Body, the end-times Christian community her family belonged to when she was a child. Our conversation touched on so much more, however, so I’m sharing some of it here — edited for length and clarity.

Raquel Laneri: Your book was very different than what I expected. A lot of times you read these memoirs, and they're about escape — escape from Appalachia, or escape from a religious group. And your book is not really that. 

Shawna Kay Rodenberg: Thank you, first of all, for noticing that. I think one of my greatest fears in writing [“Kin”] is that people would misunderstand what I was getting at by saying that I had left — that they would take that to mean that I was trying to talk about some kind of escape. But ultimately, I love the mountains. … It's a complicated place. It's not an easy place. But, you know, it's home, and it's still my identity. Obviously, with the pandemic, and quarantine, I wasn't able to travel much, but normally, I'm there every couple of months, and when my mom was ill, I was there every other week. So I feel very loyal to the place, and I don't think that will ever change.

It's an extraordinary place to grow up. … The degree of freedom that I had was, when we were living there to be outside and be feral. For example, I never really thought about what I looked like until I was almost in middle school — we were very much removed from social constructs of beauty. So I feel very fortunate in that way, to have grown up with those traditions and with that kind of freedom to just be outside in a very beautiful place. I mean, the mountains are incomparable.

Your book is not a straightforward memoir of your experiences: there are chapters that are from your mother's point of view, and your father’s, and you go into the history of your family and the history of Seco, Kentucky. I was wondering about your decision to do that.

It kind of started with this TED Talk by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie called “The Single Story.” And in it, she talks about the danger of starting in the middle of the story, and how when you remove sort of the history of a place, especially when that history is exploitative, that you do a disservice to the story itself. That really got me thinking about how so many Appalachia narratives start in the middle — with, for example, addiction to opiates — but with very little talk about all of the various factors, and not just pharma, that have like brought the place to that sort of crisis.

I had written in circles kind of around my stories for about a year and a half. … It just felt like I was starting in the middle. It felt like I couldn't really do my family justice by talking about how we lived on this end-times community without talking about all of the different moments that kind of led to that time, to that place. And so I started, of course, with the stories that my mom had told me the most frequently that seemed kind of like her origin story. And I felt like, those stories worked for the first half of my story until we got back to Kentucky, where it seemed, almost uncannily, like my father’s story kind of took over and mirrored my own.

It was my me trying to be fair, because parts of my story are a little fantastical, and they don't make a lot of sense unless you understand where everybody's coming from.

Your family went in and out of The Body [though the family left the group when Rodenberg was 10, they had periods where they were drawn to the religion again, dressing modestly and even going to conferences]. What was the most difficult thing about that? And why did they keep leaving and joining again?

I think, removing religion from the equation — because it's not all about religion — The Body offered us a way to connect to the world beyond the mountains. I don't want to be melodramatic, but in some ways, [Appalachia] feels like a country within our country, and when I encountered culture outside of it, I felt a little foreign and like I didn't know how to belong. … So that network of churches provides a sort of a structure for leaving your comfort zone. And it feels familiar because you are part of a church.

Yeah, you wrote in the book that it was nice going to these conventions as an adolescent because there was no pressure to have a boyfriend or dress cool.

Exactly. We all kind of had to live by the same rules. You didn’t have to explain to the other girls why you were wearing long dresses [instead of pants]. And we all were trying to navigate growing up and balancing being good with being free.

And so there was an immediate camaraderie, and in that way, I think my parents had a similar experience.

What was it about the church that kept making them leave?

I don't really know. If I just base it on my own experience, it has something to do with this trying to navigate faith [with] personal freedom and expression, which often feel like they are not not simpatico.

It’s that push and pull [between] tradition and freedom. It's a tight rope all the time, whether you're talking work, life, art — that balance of trying not to be swallowed up by tradition and losing your own personal freedom and expression, but then at the same time wanting to stay connected to it.

In the book you write about being sexually abused by an adult — an elder in The Body — when you were a kid. Did that make being in that community harder for you? Or were you able to compartmentalize the abuse from the religion?

I don't think I ever associated it necessarily with The Body, because as a young woman, that wasn't an isolated incident: that wasn't the only time that I encountered a [sexually] abusive adult. And I don't think that's a unique experience for a girl growing up in America. But I will say that my sexuality was complicated by my experiences with religion and my understanding of it.

How so?

I think that it had to do with being aware of the ways that I met a Christian ideal [of a woman] and the ways that I did not. The Proverbs 31 woman, who rises early: she's selfless, works all day, and she’s classy. She's what every man wants — she takes care of the home, and she raises the kids, and she still somehow manages to make money and make him look good. I definitely grew up with that ideal. And I think that complicated, the way that I thought about myself, because I was mouthy. I was distracted, self-involved. I was creative, but not in a way that served anybody.

I think so many girls grow up with those same expectations — whether it’s from the Bible or pop culture. I have a two-and-a-half-year-old daughter, and I think about this all the time. Trying to raise someone without any sort of gendered expectations is really hard.

It's so, so hard. It's such a challenge to try to raise healthy girls. And I think it’s true everywhere, but I know it's true in America.

Earlier we were talking about Appalachia and all the incomplete narratives that come out of there. What is it that most people outside the region misunderstand or assume?

Well, for starters, the thing that bothers me the most is the way that people in the region are always underestimated. And there are lots of ways that you can underestimate people: you can underestimate them by not allowing them to make decisions for themselves or policies for themselves; you can underestimate them by convincing yourself they're quaint and one-dimensional.

The people I grew up with are some of the more complicated people that I've met in all the places that I've lived since, because they have such such a difficult road to toe between the past and a future that is so uncertain — economically and industrially so uncertain. They're dealing with a century of exploitation, capitalist exploitation in the extreme. Yet so many representations of Appalachians in the media underestimate them. Even some of my more progressive liberal friends still feel very comfortable making jokes about about hillbillies — even in my presence. They think they're being clever and cosmopolitan, and it really just shows a real lack of understanding.

Is there anything else you want to add about your book?

In some ways, my story is unique. But in in other ways, it's not. More than anything, I hope people will see it as an American story.

July 03, 2021 /Raquel Laneri
Shawna Kay Rodenberg, Appalachia
Interviews
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Images courtesy of FX

Images courtesy of FX

American Horror Story's costume designer on dressing Lady Gaga

October 06, 2015 by Raquel Laneri in Fashion, Costume design, Interviews, Pop culture

When it comes to creating iconic looks, Lou Eyrich knows a thing or two. The award-winning costume designer got her start dressing rock stars like fellow Minneapolis homeboy Prince and then went on to create Lea Michele’s good-girl short-skirt-and-animal-sweater uniform for Glee. She eventually made her way to American Horror Story where she worked with such divas as Stevie Nicks and Jessica Lange. But, this season she's upped the ante.

For its fifth season, American Horror Story: Hotel (which premieres October 7 at 10 p.m. on FX), Eyrich is transforming Lady Gaga into the part of a couture-addicted, blood-sucking countess who runs a haunted hotel in which all sorts of murder and depravity go down. And given AHS's history of cult-making, show-stealing fashion — think Lange’s satin blue “Life on Mars” pantsuit in season 4’s Freak Show or the glamorous gang of witches in season 3’s Coven — we expect things to be epic.

I talked with Eyrich, who has collaborated with AHS and Glee creator Ryan Murphy continuously since 1999, about what we can expect from the new season and what it was like working with Gaga. You can read my story on Refinery29, but there's a more complete version below, for you costume history nerds.

Sarah Paulson, playing conjoined twins on last season's "Freak Show."

Sarah Paulson, playing conjoined twins on last season's "Freak Show."

First of all, what’s it like working on a show that has a totally different story and different characters every season?

“It’s challenging, but that’s what makes it so fun. It takes weeks and weeks and weeks and weeks to start a new season. ... I meet with Ryan in the beginning, we go over the whole tone of the season, and then I start doing my research, working closely with the set designer and the actors, and I’ll make concept boards for every character. I’ll meet with Ryan again, and he’ll offer feedback — I want her softer, I want him in less black — and then I start shopping and talking with the actors and doing fittings and I’ll take photos and create boards of all those fittings, and he’ll offer more feedback.”

How is Hotel different from previous seasons?

“Coven was very modern and stylized. And Freak Show, even though it was faded and worn, it was very colorful. This season, the setting is a hotel, and it’s all burgundies and golds. It’s more high-fashion, but there’s a kind of timelessness — you can’t quite tell if it is modern or period. We mix a lot of old — ‘30s, ‘70s, ‘80s, and ‘90s — with different characters wearing clothes from different era, so it feels like you’re stuck in time inside this hotel.”

The owner of the hotel is this couture-loving blood-sucking countess played by Lady Gaga — who is a sort of larger than life character herself. Was it tricky separating the character from the icon?

“It wasn’t hard at all: Lady Gaga was so into her character — she’d really done her homework — and so it was really fun to collaborate with her. And this was a big opportunity for her to get to show herself as somebody other than Lady Gaga. So I think it was exciting for both of us to discover who the countess was.”

What did you guys come up with?

“We wanted her to be very elegant, sexy, seductive, mysterious, and unexpected as well. Since she’s so fashion-forward, the first thing I did was look at the most recent runway shows to see what’s currently happening in fashion. Then, to give her that aura of timelessness, I went through archives of my favorite designers — a lot of Thierry Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood — and Old Hollywood costumes, like Adrian from the ‘40s. A lot of web surfing, a lot of vintage couture shopping. I didn't do a lot of researching of other vampire movies, because I didn't want to be influenced by them.”

I think high fashion works for vampires, since they’re often supposed to be seductive and sort of cosmopolitan. I definitely get that vibe from Gaga’s costumes, especially this one shocking-pink 1940s-style dress …

“Oh yes, Ryan wanted this dramatic gown with either a big, long train or a lot of extra fabric that would billow in the wind, because in that scene she was going to be moving through this series of lampposts outside the [Los Angeles County Museum of Art], and he wanted a fan so this fabric would be flowing behind her as she walked. The designer Michael Costello made the dress in a day, maybe two. Ryan wanted it in a brilliant color, like red, but we had just shot a scene in a red dress, so I had Michael came up with some sketches, and Ryan loved the fuschia, so that’s what we ended up with.”

What about the silver glove she wears?

“That’s her weapon — her character doesn’t have fangs, so the glove have these little knives that pop from the fingers, and that’s how she gets the blood. It’s a leather glove covered with 1,000 Swarovski crystals designed by Michael Schmidt, who is a jeweler in Los Angeles. Ryan wanted it to be like armor, but it also had to be fashionable enough to wear with her outfits.”

You got to work with another fashion icon this season, Naomi Campbell ...

“Oh, Naomi was such a pro. She was able to connect us with a lot of designers that we never could have afforded to loan clothes to us. She plays a Vogue editor, so she got some Zac Posen, Marc Jacobs, a gorgeous Saint Laurent, Celine, Dolce & Gabbana, these beautiful fur vests — everything every girl would want to wear. It was definitely a highlight in my career.”

Do you have any other favorite characters?

“Sarah Paulson’s character, Sally, who is this grungy, punky, heroine addict, has been so much fun to create. We scoured the Internet and the town and all the vintage stores and found these old Betsy Johnsons from the ‘90s — everything she wears is from the ‘20s, ‘30s, ‘40s and ‘90s — and it’s all overdyed and torn and ripped fishnets but then we pair it with shoes from the ‘40s, or that look old. Totally different from last season.

“The other one is Evan Peters — he’s also unrecognizable this season, he plays a 1930s tycoon who owns the Hotel Cortez. Very Clark Gable.”

What is your ultimate goal when creating a costume?

“If you look at it and it defines who the character is, that is a good costume. Like Indiana Jones — that’s the best example of a costume that defines the character. So, if an actor says this is great, it helps them find the character, they’re comfortable in it, but then people want to dress like that character too — that's the ultimate compliment.”

You've done so many different genres of stuff, is there any genre or period you haven't done that you want to try?

"I've never done futuristic, but I have no desire to. I've never done any theater — I've only done film and television — so that would be fun. I love the '20s, '30s, '40s, but anything before the '20s I'm really not interested. It's really beautiful, but it's just a lot of work — all those underpinnings, and none of the actors want to wear it because it's so uncomfortable: all the corsets and the petticoats and the wool. But, I think fantasy, you know, I've never done a fantasy."

Can you give us any other secrets about the new season?

“Well, Gaga was so generous and offered to bring pieces in from her own personal archive. So, let’s just say that her fans are going to get a big treat when they see something that I'm not going to give away!”
 

October 06, 2015 /Raquel Laneri
Costume design, Television, Lou Eyrich, American Horror Story, Lady Gaga
Fashion, Costume design, Interviews, Pop culture
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